Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.
#U pro mp free
It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle. Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit. Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location - the front corner. When you change the tape to a thicker/thinner one or have to dismantle the hot-end to fix a clog - you're going to have to re-level. Even if it was - things don't stay level for long. But I wouldn't worry much if yours isn't. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.īEST ANSWER: I guess I was lucky, my build plate started off level right out of the box. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.įor PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape. Subject to credit approval.BEST ANSWER: You don't say what kind of filament, temperature of hotend or bed.
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